Four Maryland restaurants have earned a place on The Washington Post’s latest “40 Best Restaurants in and around D.C.” guide, the final installment curated by longtime critic Tom Sietsema, who announced he will be moving on after 25 years at the paper. While not retiring, Sietsema’s departure marks the end of an era in local food writing, and his last guide offers a fitting snapshot of the region’s evolving dining scene, one that extends well beyond the District’s borders.
Two of this year’s selections hail from Montgomery County, Beteseb Restaurant in Silver Spring and Mamma Lena Trattoria Napoletana in Germantown, both celebrated for their authenticity, warmth, and consistency.
Located at 8201 Georgia Avenue in downtown Silver Spring, Beteseb has become a local favorite for its traditional Ethiopian cuisine and welcoming atmosphere. The family-run restaurant is known for its colorful vegetarian platters featuring lentils, split peas, and spiced greens, as well as heartier dishes like kitfo and tibs. Sietsema’s inclusion of Beteseb highlights the strong Ethiopian food community in Montgomery County and the restaurant’s ability to make both first-time diners and regulars feel at home.
In Germantown, Mamma Lena Trattoria Napoletana, located at 13507 Clopper Road, represents a different side of Montgomery County’s dining identity. The family-owned Italian restaurant has drawn praise for its generous portions, comforting pastas, and a dining room that feels as welcoming as a neighborhood gathering spot. Sietsema previously noted that meals here make guests “feel like regulars,” a sentiment echoed by locals who say it’s a rare suburban restaurant that balances elevated food with an approachable, family-style charm.
Outside Montgomery County, Northwest Chinese Food in College Park and Wye Oak Tavern in Frederick rounded out the Maryland contingent on Sietsema’s list. Northwest Chinese Food, at 7313 Baltimore Avenue, is celebrated for its bold northeastern Chinese flavors and casual, no-frills setting where dishes like hand-pulled noodles and cumin-spiced meats shine. Wye Oak Tavern, led by brothers Bryan and Michael Voltaggio, offers elevated American fare in a repurposed historic building in downtown Frederick, blending comfort dishes with refined technique and creativity.
